FINE HAND TOOL SKILLS

Today we commenced our introduction to using hand tools at TAFE. Paul set out a plan for each of us, which was a diagram with measurements for constructing four different types of halving joints, an end halving joint, a stopped halving joint, a T-halving joint and a dovetail halving joint.
1. Paul showed us the timber we were to be using to construct the halving joints, which were 60x30mm lengths of timber.
2. Next I observed the measurements and chose a length of timber that would be suitable for as the main piece of wood that would have four other shorter lengths joined to it via the halving joints.
3. After this, using a sharp pencil and a square, i measured and marked out the lines i needed to cut out for the joints. Any cross sections of the pencil lines that marked a piece of wood that would become an off-cut would be marked with a cross to signify which pieces wouldn't be needed.
4. I then started sawing using a tenon saw with my index finger of my hand gripping the handle, running parallel to the blade, which gives greater lateral control of the saw. Also Paul instructed us to use long drawn out strokes of the saw to give a more accurate cut.
5. Any off-cuts at this point were to be thrown in the bin to make sure no accidents occurred due to left over pieces of timber.
6. Once all cuts on the main piece of timber were complete, i moved onto cutting the adjoining piece of timber, following the same steps as before.
7. Once both the main piece of timebr and the adjoining piece of timber are cut properly, i would then check to see how the fit was coming along.
8. Generally the cuts weren't accurate enough so i would then use the chisel to carefully (on the first end halving joint) shave the housing down, sighting and checking the fit as i would go as to make sure i did not take too much wood off.
9. Whilst using the chisel it is imperative to cut away from the body and two have both hands either on the handle of the chisel, or have one hand away from the blade of the chisel, to avoid any injuries due to slipping.
10. Next, once i was satisfied with the fit i would put the pieces together and clamp them tight in the vice on the edge of work table. From here i used the manual planer and planed down overhang of the adjoining piece of timber.
11. When using the planer Paul instructed me to plane diagonally across the wood because of the way the end grain behaves to being planed, this way it gave a much neater cut and did not cause chipping on the ends of the wood.
12. After planing had taken the wood down far enough i used a cork sanding block with 100 grit sanding paper, to sand down the timber with a nice finishing flush fit.